
Garden Design
· 28 September 2023 · 10 min read
A garden that supports wildlife is not a separate category of garden. It is not a rougher, wilder version of a designed space, full of overgrown corners and compromise. Some of the best wildlife habitat we have seen has been built into gardens that are also beautifully laid out and completely practical for everyday use.
Pride Landscape & Design
Garden Design Team
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A wildlife pond with natural stone edging, marginal grasses and eryngium planting. The shallow gravel beach gives birds and amphibians easy access to the water’s edge.
The difference is in how you approach the decisions. Planting choices, lawn management, water, and the way areas are connected all have a direct impact on whether a garden becomes somewhere birds, bees, and other wildlife actually use. None of that needs to come at the cost of how the garden looks or functions.
Planting is the single most important factor in making a garden more attractive to wildlife. Not because you need to grow the right species in isolation, but because the structure and variety of what you plant determines what kind of habitat the garden offers.
A planting scheme that layers height, from ground cover through to shrubs and then trees, creates different levels of shelter and food. That layering suits a much wider range of wildlife than a simpler scheme built around a single height of border planting. Birds use the height of trees and taller shrubs. Insects work through the lower layers. Ground-level planting and leaf litter provide cover for beetles, hedgehogs and other ground-dwelling species.
During the design process, we often think about planting in terms of seasonal interest across the whole year. That same principle applies directly to wildlife. A garden that has something flowering from early spring through to late autumn will support pollinators for far longer than one that peaks in a single month. Choosing plants that produce berries or seed heads as they go over extends that support further still, giving birds and small mammals a food source through the colder months.
“A garden that supports wildlife does not need to feel wild. It needs to feel considered.”
Planting for pollinators does not require a specialist list. Many of the plants we use regularly, salvias, verbena, echinaceas, rudbeckias, catmint, achillea, and lavender among them, are excellent sources of nectar. Native or near-native species tend to have the strongest relationship with local insects, but a good mix of both works well in practice. The more important thing is continuity of bloom and a variety of flower forms, since different insects have different preferences.
Lavender is one of the most reliable plants for bees and other pollinators. Including it alongside plants with different flower forms extends the season and supports a wider range of insects.
Lawns often get dismissed in the conversation about wildlife gardening, but that depends entirely on how they are managed.
A close-mown, uniform lawn offers relatively little. But a lawn that allows some sections to grow a little longer, or that includes areas sown with a low-growing wildflower mix, changes things significantly. Longer grass supports insects that live at ground level and provides cover for small animals moving through the garden.
Leaving some sections unmown through the summer, then cutting and removing the material in late summer or early autumn, is one of the most effective approaches. It does not mean the garden looks unkempt. A clearly defined edge between a maintained lawn area and a longer section reads as intentional. The key is making that distinction look considered rather than neglected.
A naturalistic wildflower area works well as part of a garden layout when it is positioned thoughtfully, perhaps along a boundary, set behind a low border, or used to soften a transition between zones. Placed this way, it adds texture and seasonal colour while also doing real ecological work.
Water is one of the most effective things you can introduce into a garden for wildlife. A pond does not need to be large to be useful. Even a modest water feature, with a shallow edge or a way in and out, will be used by birds, amphibians, and insects relatively quickly.
The key design decisions are around depth and access. A pond that has a gently sloping edge, a shelf around the margin, and some variation in depth allows different species to use different parts of it. Frogs and newts need shallow water to breed. Dragonflies need open water and marginal planting to complete their life cycle. Birds need somewhere they can safely wade in.
Where a pond is being designed into a new garden layout, we try to position it so it sits within a planted area rather than as an isolated feature on an open patio. Marginal planting around the edge helps it feel like part of the garden rather than a separate project. Reeds, iris, water mint, and marginal sedges all work well and provide structure for wildlife emerging from the water.
A small recirculating pump keeps the water moving, which helps oxygenation and reduces the risk of algae taking over in summer. Where there is no electricity supply, solar-powered options work reasonably well for a feature of this scale.
One of the most useful things a garden design can do is help wildlife move through the space, and beyond it.
Hedgehogs, in particular, need to travel between gardens. A small gap at the base of a fence or gate, something like 13cm, allows them to pass through freely. Where boundary treatment is being specified as part of a build, it is a simple thing to accommodate and makes a genuine difference to local hedgehog populations.
Within the garden itself, connecting planted areas with covered routes, low planting that runs between borders, a log pile tucked at the base of a hedge, a strip of wildflower meadow running along a boundary, gives wildlife a way to move between different parts of the space. A garden that has distinct planted areas connected in this way works much better ecologically than one that has isolated pockets of habitat surrounded by open paving or lawn.
A planted strip running alongside the path between dining area and snug. Cottage-style planting and lavender soften the hardscaping and give pollinators a route through the garden.
Bird boxes and insect hotels are most effective when they are positioned with some thought and, where possible, integrated into the garden layout from the start rather than added afterwards.
A bird box needs to face broadly north or east to keep it out of direct sun and prevailing wet winds. Height matters too. Most species prefer a box at least two metres off the ground, fixed to a wall or tree, and sheltered from the wind. Where a garden includes a mature tree, a high boundary wall, or a timber structure, these all offer good fixing points.
An insect hotel works best when positioned somewhere that gets some morning sun, ideally facing south-east, and where it is sheltered from rain. Wall-mounted options, built into a fence panel or retaining wall, tend to be more stable and more effective than freestanding versions, which can become unstable over time.
A log pile tucked at the base of a hedge or in a quieter corner of the garden provides habitat for beetles, woodlice, slow worms and other ground-level species. It is not the most prominent feature in a garden, but it does not need to be. Placed in the right spot, it simply looks like part of the planting.
The gardens that support the most wildlife are not necessarily the ones that have done the most specifically for nature. They are the ones where the overall approach, the planting structure, the management of lawn, the presence of water, the connectivity between areas, adds up to a space that a wide range of species can actually use.
That is achievable within almost any design brief. The choices that make a garden more wildlife-friendly are usually the same choices that make it a more interesting, more layered, and more enjoyable space to spend time in. A well-structured planting scheme, a pond designed to fit the garden, a lawn managed with a little more thought, a connected series of planted areas. These are design decisions as much as ecological ones.
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See this in practice: How Planting Fits Into Garden Design
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A selection of gardens we’ve designed across Nottinghamshire, Lincolnshire and Yorkshire
It can support wildlife and still feel structured.